Afternoon in the park in Jackson

Greetings from Jackson Hole, Wyoming!

Robert and Allison built a campfire last night outside our trailer. Of course, we roasted marshmallows. We noticed that most other campers had turned in for the night. We really are night owls. But what fun to sit under a full moon and listen to the rushing river in the distance. Other than the river the campground was silent. No radios, no generators, no people talking, even. However, we were startled a bit when we heard a cracking noise in the woods. Something was out there. I ushered Allison to the trailer, Robert close behind. He got a flashlight out and discovered two deer grazing next to the trailer. The light didn't scare them off; they hung around till we went off to bed.

We are cautious because we are in the semi-wilderness. We know that here we are guests of the wildlife. Wildlife. On our walk yesterday, we saw so much animal poop, scat, I think it's called. Of all subjects it is now animal poop that interests us. We have to get a book so we can identify it all! This morning we cranked up the generator for our very first time. Without it, it's hard to make that morning java, and I'm not one for Folger's instant. Robert and I took the standard three-minute shower, which is not as difficult to do as you'd imagine. It's all about conservation. Conservation. We laugh because we know this is not really roughing, how could it be with this awesome Airstream. We are totally comfortable.

My hardest obstacle is internet connection. We drove into Jackson Hole thinking it would be easy to find an internet cafe. I guess I asked all the wrong people because it took forever to find one. Finally, here I am at the Pearl Street Bagel perched in the corner under a scratchy speaker blaring Hootie and the Blowfish. It's hard to concentrate.

Jackson Hole is a bit like Aspen, Colorado in it's upscale tone. Great fine art galleries and restaurants. Allison was able to locate a Webkinz pony so she is thrilled. Tomorrow we plan to visit the fish hatchery and an art museum on the hill outside of town. We'd like to ride horses somewhere, as well as do a little fishing--that is, if the moose doesn't mind.

Role Reversal

Besides being the designated driver, Robert likes to play in the kitchen, too. I say, "Go for it!" In our short time on the road we have already acquired roles: He does all the driving, parking, hooking up, and waste management. I navigate, (taking blame for wrong turns,) manage the trailer's interior, laundry, grocery shopping, and Allison's schoolwork. I decide the routes we'll take and where we'll stay which means I get to do all the research, usually on the fly. So far this has worked out quite well for us. I've steered us towards rv parks where I can get internet connections, though in Yellowstone this has been impossible. We left there this morning and landed near Jackson Hole where I am back in touch again, though barely.

We have only stayed thus far, in top-notch, full hook-up campsites. Until last night we never used our own shower. These nicer facilities have laundry rooms, shower houses, and general stores, and sometimes even cable hook-up. In Yellowstone we stayed at the only full hook-up campsite, Fishing Bridge. It was adequate, but cramped. We only stayed two nights. There is no cellular service or internet connection in all Yellowstone that we could find. I guess that's the point--to be out of touch with the rest of the world.

During the day we were all over Yellowstone seeing the usual sites--Old Faithful, the hot springs, the mud-pots. We attended a couple of Ranger lectures which were very worthwhile. We learned that ravens have large brains for their bodies and they mate for life (so how smart can they be, really?) One of the best features of the park is the employees. Most of them are retirees there for the summer season. They just seem to be so thrilled to be there. We met a foursome that were great friends that came together to work at the Hamilton store next to Old Faithful. When the summer is over they've head back to their homes in Arizona.

We left this morning to head south to the Grand Tetons. We found a campsite very close to Jackson Hole, our first with no hook-ups. We are dry camping for the very first time. The site is just yards from the Gros Ventre River in a grove of Cottonwoods. The campsites are rustic and spaced far apart which is so nice. We set up camp and then took a walk along the stream where we came across a huge moose taking a long drink. In the camp we see deer and a buffalo across the field. I think we are going to like this kind of camping the best.

Cody Nite Rodeo!

What a blast! Cody Nite Rodeo. I didn't capture everything on video, but did manage to get a few clips of bronco riding and calf chasing. At one point the rodeo clowns invited all children under 12 to compete to pull a ribbon off the tail of a calf. Allie tried her best, but her boots encumbered her. "These boots are for walking. These boots are for stomping--but these boots are not for running," she explained later. We may go again tonight and give her another shot at it.

We spent the entire day at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center. There are five museums within the center, all of them top-notch. The Plains Indians Museum had better artifacts and exhibits than I've seen anywhere else. In the Buffalo Bill Museum it was fun to see his personal items: gifts from foreign nobilities, guns, buckskin coats, letters.
In the Western Art museum I came across a favorite, an image I've used in my blog: the Madonna of the Prairie, by W.H.D. Koerner.

Cody, Wyoming has been a real treat. I would have missed it if we had not planned this Airstream adventure to Yellowstone. It is very small and friendly. I notice things like young people who say "excuse me" when they cross in front of you. At the rodeo, a little boy in cowboy garb ( including the hat and giant silver belt buckle) startled me when he blurted out, "Where you from?" His name was Tyler, or Tanner, or some cowboy name, and he told me his big brother was riding a bull tonight. And yes, he was! Skyler Erickson, not more than 10 years old was indeed on top of a small bull later that evening. He won. I love the names of rodeo kids. Catchy western-flavored names like Chaz and Cole, Chance, Cade, Shain, Logan, Trapper, and his sister, Feather. I want a cowboy name. Or an Indian name. Any ideas?

Greetings from Cody, Wyoming!

On our way out of Deadwood we drove through beautiful Spearfish Canyon. We didn't stop to walk to the waterfalls since we were tired of trekking. Instead we headed straight for Cody, Wyoming. It took a lot longer than I estimated mostly because we had to cross the Bighorn Mountains where the ascent was non-stop, relentless. The transmission began heating up as we chugged slowly up the grade. Then it began to rain so we had to be extra cautious. Plus, there were deer to watch for; they cross the highway often. After leaving the mountains we came into a long desert-like plateau that went on for miles until we got closer to Meeteese.A few miles more and we were finally in Cody. We found an RV park close to the Buffalo Bill Museum and pulled in right at dark.

Overall, the Airstream pulls nicely behind our Tahoe. Robert is very careful which means we go slow and let people pass us. We're in no hurry. We get such a kick out of pulling over for a break. We unlock the Airstream, make a sandwich, sit on the sofa for awhile. So far, we love pulling our house with us. It's so cool!

Ponderosa Campground is nice enough though the Internet connection is puny. I find myself parked outside the Beta Coffeehouse after hours so to get on their Wi-Fi. I'd gladly patronize the place if it had realistic hours, but everything in Cody seems to go to sleep after 7:00 p.m. Except, the Rodeo. Good thing we didn't choose tonight to go; it is raining. As much of the country is in a terrible heat wave, we seem to have escaped to perfect temperatures. Nights in South Dakota and Wyoming are cool; days are usually sunny and mild. We are seeing these regions at their best.

Today we rode the exceptional Cody Trolley Tour though town. Our guides were a cheerful married couple, locals, I think. Margie dresses like Annie Oakley. Their claim is this: "Give us an hour and we'll give you a hundred years." They did know their Buffalo Bill Cody history.

Tomorrow we plan to visit the Buffalo Bill Cody Museum then head to the rodeo in the evening.

A picture so pretty I had to post twice

Yes, I took this. Thank the natural beauty of Wyoming and a little added saturation via Photoshop. And, the subject matter being the splendidly sleek and shiny Airstream.

Free at Last

We took the advice of another Airstreamer and took the scenic roads out of Colorado rather than I-25 out of Denver. We were so glad we did. We headed up Highway 9 stopping in Kremmling to eat lunch at a cute diner/bakery called My Family Restaurant. The glazed donut I had was so good that I made Robert buy a whole apple pie for later. I have this notion that on this trip I will uncover the place that bakes the best apple pie. (However, we discovered later that MFR may have the worst.)

From Highway 9 we headed north toward Steamboat Springs, a town we'd visited years ago when Ryan had a baseball tournament there. I remember Robert declaring then he was going to find a stuffed buffalo head to bring home as a souvenir and we joked about where we'd hang it. Then he discovered how pricey they were and from then on we were eyeing every buffalo head in every restaurant wondering if it could be had for less. We are still on the lookout for "the deal."


Anyway, we skipped Steamboat and took more back roads to get to Laramie, Wyoming. In Laramie, we were given excellent directions by an employee outside an auto parts store for the best route to Custer, South Dakota. In wonderful Wyoming vernacular he said: I will forewarn you that 32 starts out all nice and straight but turns real twisty-like, but I believe it is the faster route." Once again we took someone's advice to forgo the Interstate and we were glad we did. If his recommended route was indeed quicker it wouldn't have mattered to us anyway--so beautiful was this road. We were alone for most portions and surrounded by 360 views of landscape and sky so stretching and vast that but for the highway and some utility lines the year could have been 1807 , not 2007. Beautiful, beautiful Wyoming!

We arrived in Custer after dark pulling into Big Pine Campgrounds where the manager had tacked our campsite info to the bulletin board outside the closed office. Robert managed to get us parked and hooked up before falling into bed. Allison and I stayed up watch Born Free on the DVD player. I think I was 10 when I first saw this movie and in my memory it was a glorious, touching tale of fuzzy lion cubs. Watching it with my daughter I was struck with how stiff and sappy and sexist it was-- the woman always resorting to near-hysterics to make a point and her husband always bossing her around, telling her to "Go to bed!" Forget the cubs woman--free yourself! Let Andy Williams and his Academy-award-winning song be the soundtrack for your escape. Run or toughen up!

30+ years later I finally get it: This film was propaganda for the feminist movement. Aha! I see now. What subversiveness! Born Free was not really about the lion cubs, but the cry against domination and manipulation in marriage. But of course, the message was lost on my young self. What else did I miss?