Dolphins

Before we saw the killer whales we came across countless dolphins. Here's some video I captured and posted on Youtube.

Killer Whale Sighting

Today seemed like a good day to get on the water. We took the boat to a beach on the back side of Carmen Island near the old salt mine. The ride was rough as we sped across the channel bumping our backsides the whole way. I clung to a towel for warmth and protection from the wind. I was being a good sport until about 45 minutes in when it seemed like we'd never get there and I suddenly had an urge to to kill Robert when, lucky for him, we spotted dolphins.

I've never seen so many at once; and so many young ones. There must have been a hundred. As usual, many followed our boat jumping and surging all around us. They were marvelous. The beach, when we finally arrived, was a nice stretch of white sand very thick with shells. We spent our time gathering shells and lying in the sun. The weather was just perfect, though the wind was beginning to pick up. We saw seagulls dining on beached Humboldt squid. Strange creatures, those squid.

I was dreading the return trip, but something wonderful happened along the way: We encountered killer whales. At first, I didn't believe Robert when he spotted them. There were two close to us and others at a greater distance. The two turned out to be mother and calf. They were breaching and diving and making quite a show. Incredibly, the two of them came right up to our boat, the baby close enough to touch if we'd been brave enough, but we were pretty jittery about the whole episode. You know, they're killer whales for Pete's sake.

God, they were magnificent. I tried to shoot some video, but between the rocking boat and the excitement and the glare of the sun I did not get the shots I wanted. I did get some of the two chasing down a water fowl, a duck, we thought. They seemed to be tormenting this poor duck. They would rush into it and attempt to toss it. But they never ate it. Amazingly, it managed in its weakened state to fly away eventually.

I posted a video, albeit a shaky one, here and on Youtube. However, the low quality is probably because there's not enough bandwidth here to upload high-quality video.

More of the same, but different

With our daughter in school again I find I'm not posting much. Reason: I have to wake up early now; no more late-nights which is when I prefer to write. I have to haul my behind out of bed by 6:00 to get Allison ready for school. Really, I'm glad for the change. I need need the discipline.

The alley outside our house has been getting a little attention from the developers. It has gone through so many transformations I can't keep count. Once it was leveled and laid over with loose gravel; that was back when the heavy machinery used it as a thoroughfare. One day I awoke to find the gravel being removed. Hurray, landscaping must be coming! Months later it was once again a dust bowl. The gravel was replaced. Then removed.


Stone sidewalks appeared. And much later some plants down the center. Then the plants disappeared and huge holes were dug for trees. Weeks went by; we worried for any wayward pedestrian who might unsuspectingly fall into the abyss. We were relieved to see the holes being filled finally, even if it was with dirt, not trees.

This week a crew appeared and within two days we had this: an uninspiring field of plants, none which bear color, and we have no decorative rocks like the other alleys closer to the Inn.

Not to worry, I am told. This too, is only a temporary fix. Later, crews will remove everything including the sidewalks. We will be treated to a real professional job that includes wavy paved pathways, a fountain, bicycle racks, mesquite trees and, finally, the much needed step up to our doorway.

I don't want to appear to be complaining. I am always happy to see something, anything, happen in my cluster. I guess I find it somewhat amusing how things get done. And things are getting done. The neighborhood is busy with activity, mostly along the lines of landscaping and hardscaping. The paving of the Paseo has not resumed, but the water (or sewer?) pipe along the center of the Paseo has been repaired. Crews are working hard in Agua Viva, and the golf course is looking beautiful. Wish I could say the same for the tennis center, but that is long on the list of priorities for Replay. We play anyway, though the wind-blown dirt on the courts is growing thick as sand dunes.

Did I say I love living here? We are so happy to be here. Any inconvience is tempered with jubilation of waking every day to sunshine and the promises each day holds for outdoor fun. We are constantly on our bikes meandering through the neighborhood or taking long walks at sunset. We're playing tennis, golf, hiking, beachcombing, exploring. The weather is still somewhat cool in the morning and evenings (and in the shade) but, what we have is sun and that is a dear thing in January to us norteamericanos.

Back to School

School began Wednesday. Allison is attending Colegio Calafia, the private Catholic school in Loreto. After the typical back-to-school jitters, she settled in quite well.

Mornings are difficult for us as I am not a morning person, and she is a perfectionist who dissolves into tears if I don't arrange her hair just right. We barely got off on time because I couldn't find her sweater. School begins at 8:00 a.m. and is out at 1:30 p.m.

Colegio is not a school you want to be late to. All the legendary Mexican disregard for promptness doesn't apply here--at least it hasn't in the past. There is a new Directora and she does not have the terse demeanor of the first one. We shall see how tight a ship she runs.

Happy New Year...here's your bus ticket!

Beau and Karly left for home today. Their flight on Continental at 8:00 am left out of San Jose del Cabo. When we made arrangements in late November, all departing flights on Alaska from Loreto were booked. Leaving out of Cabo was the only option. Originally, I'd intended to purchase flights from Loreto to Cabo on Aero Calafia, but I waited too long and, they too, were sold out. Their plane carries only 13 passengers. Our next option was to drive them, but with my mother arriving to Loreto today, it would be too stressful to make a quick round-trip to Cabo. When I go to Cabo I prefer it to be because I really, really, need supplies--and--I need a diversion from the backwoods pace of Loreto.

The next option was the bus. But, God, could I subject them to a monotonous 8-hour ride in a nasty old Mexican bus? I didn't want their last impressions of their Christmas vacation to be tainted by the unpleasantries of public transportation. Robert sat me straight: "They are young--they can endure it. It will give them a story to tell." I know he's right, but...I can remember well the only bus ride I took. Seven hour and several stops in lonely, forgotten towns--and back in the days before cell phones, hand-held gaming devices, and hand sanitizer. I endured it well enough to say, "never again!" Oh, well. They will survive. So I got them on the 8:00 am bus on Saturday, reserved a hotel for them in Cabo, packed them a lunch, and bid them farewell.

I will miss my oldest son, especially since he really, sincerely, truly, loves being with us. Our younger is already squirming to get back to his friends even though it means exchanging swim trunks for thermal underwear. His college break is nearly a month long, but two weeks with your parents is eternity at his age and station. For now, I've got him right where I want him and, lucky him, there is no 8-hour bus ride in his future.


As for Beau and Karly, they have each other, so anything done together is more fun. I enjoyed watching them together. I see my son broaden his focus to include another's welfare. Besides being cute, it gives me a certain sense of pride to see him look after Karly. For Robert, I know he gets pride in seeing Beau develop his business. Me too, but I respond with a sigh of satisfaction when I see scenes like the one in this photo. As a mother I can say, got that part right.

Boat's Afloat

We took Robert's new boat out Wednesday. This was my first time on it. It had some mechanical difficulties earlier in the week that perplexed Robert until finally he managed a fix. He is supercharged about his little boat. ( I think it's little, he thinks it's just right.)


Now we can get out on the water and really enjoy living on the Sea of Cortez. It's true; if you don't get on the water you're missing half of what's special about Loreto Bay--the dolphins, the whales, the seals, the occasional sea turtle, and all the other marine life. We saw a turtle paddling the waters around Coronado Island. The sight surprised Robert as he first thought it was the tip of a rock outcropping and he almost veered away. I tried to photograph it but it dove under as we approached it more closely.

The dolphins are my favorite. When I'm out there I'm looking for them every minute. More than often we find them (or they find us) and they'll tag along for awhile, racing about the boat, bounding out of the water. The motivation for their frolicking could only be pure, playful joy. We can't contain our excitement over the spectacle. And maybe they find our joy just as amusing as we hang over the boat gawking, laughing, pointing. Beau painted a funny, but quite probably accurate, idea of how the dolphins must see us humans: physical manifestations of the expression "WOW." What goofs we must look like to them.

Tomorrow, the guys are going out at sunrise to fish. Word's out that the fish are biting. Allison and are taking a pass, but our friend, Doug, and his little boy were game. They must be pretty excited: Doug phoned me tonight to tell me he's preparing a lunch for the four or them. Does Robert like tuna salad, egg salad, or peanut butter and jelly? As if it matters. He's just giddy to get out on the sea and frolic. Happy happy joy joy.

Tabor Canyon and Tiramisu

We've been so busy with our visiting family; it's hard to sit and write. Saturday was Beau's birthday. We celebrated by hiking Tabor Canyon. (The first photo is of he and Karly.)Not for the feint of heart, this hike requires scrambling over huge boulders and scaling ridges strewn with crumbling rock. Earlier this spring Robert and I took it to the top--a thousand feet I believe. It took us six hours round-trip with a break for lunch. At the higher elevations there are beautiful views to the ocean across Puerto Escondido. It is one of the more memorable experiences a visitor to this area could have. The rain from the hurricane in October has left the region wet and green. There are pools of water where there was none earlier this year.

This time we had children and other families along, so we didn't get past the first "chimney." I'm calling it that because I heard someone else call this enormous rock obstacle by that name. It requires that you walk through a pool of water and enter the crevice at the bottom of a pile of boulders and pull yourself up to the next elevation. It proved to be too much a challenge this time with kids in tow. So this trip was only about two and a half hours long.

After our hiking excursion we had a special birthday dinner at a new restaurant in Loreto: La Mision. It is at the new hotel on the Malecon. Though the hotel is not yet finished, the restaurant is recently opened. We visited with the chef, Rodrigo, the day before about making our evening a special event. He was to prepare a special menu for us. What we got was unexpected. It was fabulous. We had course after course of wonderful appetizers and entrees. Crab cakes, shrimp, scallops, lamb, duck, tiramisu cake. Rodrigo kept it coming and it was muy rico. The wine list wasn't half bad for Loreto. We had Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley--something you'll not find anywhere in these parts. Dinner was so good we talked about all the next day comparing it to other wonderful dining experiences we've had elsewhere. It ranks high we decided.

Overall, it was one of the best days we've had here as a family.

What I got for Christmas

Allie waits in the open window for her brothers to arrive for Christmas dinner. Robert carves a turkey in the kitchen eating as he goes. It was a really big turkey when I roasted it, but it dwindled before it reached the table. I managed corn bread stuffing, canned yams, mashed potatoes, caramelized onions and two pumpkin pies I purchased from Dali's. I had to do without seasonings I'm accustomed to back home, like sage. The variety of vegetables in Loreto has always been limited. If you're hoping for green peas, green beans, broccoli, Brussels sprouts --ha!--think again. You'd better love peppers and calabacitas (Mexican squash) or the occasional cucumber because that's about all the green you can count on here at the mercados. Many folks drive to Constitution or La Paz for better variety and selection. We didn't have the time or interest in that this year.

We feel lucky to be all together for Christmas. With all the weather-related problems with Alaska Air and the travel advisories in the Midwest it was fortunate Allie's brothers got here at all. Many folks headed this way were delayed for days as the airlines worked out their problems. Our sons had a close call on the connection in L.A. when Alaska Air twice changed it's departure time.

Our boys are staying in another house which works out better for all our comfort. Plus, our older brought his fiancee. They just got engaged last week. She thought he was gifting her with a laptop when he asked her to close her eyes and hold out her hands. She stood there palms up while he slyly slipped a ring on her finger. (I hope they don't get annoyed I just told you all that little detail.) They are young, but sure. We're happy for them and, of course, we adore her and feel honored she wants to be part of our family. She may be thinking only of our son, but I know the bigger picture. She's taking on all of us. She's going to be part of us. I think about this every time I look at her across the dinner table. This is a young girl that somebody else lovingly cared for and raised who one December day finds herself at dinner with another family announcing she'll be joining them --indefinitely.

I ruminate on every possible variation of this theme all evening long. That she loves our son is no mystery to me. That she's joining with us, adding to us, enhancing us--all willingly--is what mesmerizes me. How can she know the full extent of her choice? I certainly didn't at her age. I didn't put thought into what import I had to Robert's family. I didn't spend time considering how I impacted them; I was caught up in myself and Robert. Only now, years later, am I seeing the view from the other side. It keeps feeling like an honor. Beau has a found a lovely girl. Maybe they think it's all about them, but somehow I feel like I've been given a beautiful gift.

More Sprucing

It is a particularly beautiful day here in Nopolo with sunny skies and warm temps. Sorry, all you States-stuck folks back home. We are hoping those of you scheduled to fly down this week will finally get through. With the weather-related problems in Seattle, all the Alaska Air flights are grounded, which means even though my sons could get to LAX no problem, the AA plane they need to catch may not be there. Their flights are for Thursday, Christmas Day, so hopefully things may turn for the better by then.

In the meantime, I'm still "sprucing" my house for their arrival. We finally hired landscapers to finish our terrace. Today they brought in large potted ficus trees to set on the southwest side of the patio where we get a lot of afternoon sun. Later, they'll bring bougainvillea and set up trellises for them to climb creating a nice shade barrier. EcoScapes is no longer in business, so it is now Vivero that we deal with. At least I think that is the name.

Sprucing

I've been working to get our house in a holiday spirit. I would have loved some evergreen, but that is impossible to find here. So, I improvised. I snipped a few branches from a soft bark tree by the arroyo and Robert helped me bend and tie into a wreath form. Then I added large seed pods (Catalpa, I think) and some sprigs from the enormous ficus tree out front our house.

Robert, with the help of Roch, who was visiting, hoisted the wooden bench over the terrace wall and I pulled some pots down. Finally, some color to our otherwise plain white wall.



Now, what to do about the view from the door to the alley?

Poco a poco

I made an effort to wake early today. It is true that Loreto is most beautiful in the morning. The early sunlight washes slowly over the mountains warming each range one by one. It is a study in contrast. By mid-day the sunlight fuses everything together into more bland hues.

This first photo is the view from my tower across the Paseo to the northwest. The following are shots of the Paseo under construction. The lane that leads to the Inn is currently being prepared for asphalt. It is certainly encouraging to see the progress take shape. I don't have any information on the schedule or plans for each aspect of the community, but there is an apparent sense of order that seemed lacking previously. I did inquire about the landscaping in progress in Founder's Neighborhood and learned that each cluster is being done or redone to higher standards starting closest to the Inn and working north. Lucky for us, they have started working in our alley planting giant palms. They will get done as much as they can before breaking at December 22. In January they will come back and re-do our paver pathways.

The weather has turned a little cool and overcast. I thought it would rain today, but no. That there is no wind is an asset as it would certainly be whipping up the dirt in the raw street.
I've been here previous winters where the wind mixed with the construction made for miserable times. We've been here one week already and it has been so pleasant. Poco a poco, little by little, Loreto Bay moves forward.

Hello, neighbor

With the house now in order we venture out to see the progress in the neighborhood. The Paseo is torn up in preparation for a new and improved major boulevard. Landscaping and hardscaping in the clusters closest to the Inn are impressive. The road to the back entrance looks best. Rock paver sidewalks meander alongside palms directing your eye to the beautiful mountainside. The hurricane season left the terrain lush and greener than we have ever seen.

Robert's bike had a flat so we went on search for a tire pump, not a hard item to find since everyone here seems to own a bicycle. Our friend, John Ford was glad to oblige not only with the pump but with a double-shot iced coffee. He has a commercial grade coffee maker as well as a roaster and treats everyone to what has to be Loreto Bay's freshest, most delicious coffee. Did I mention he and his family hail from Seattle? Another interesting fact: Because this is Baja climate and not the rainy northwest, John and his kids prefer to sleep under a tent on the terrace every night--just because they can.

While visiting John, our other good friend, Doug Brown showed up on his bike and we had an impromptu alley chat. All of us have young children very close in age. Like us, the Brown's and Ford's are living here for an indefinite period of time. We all have businesses or professions that allow us to work and play outside of the U.S. Having just one or two other families like ourselves makes such a difference in our happiness here in LB. I imagine our experiences are similar to a small community in the 1950's U.S., where neighbors had to rely on each other. We came to town honoring a few requests for provisions like garden hoses and baking goods. In return, we are showered with neighborly gestures of invites for dinner and recreation. The kids ride their bikes all through the neighborhood exploring and we know they are safe. I like that so much.

Still Cleaning

I can't enjoy Loreto living until my house is in order. And everyone must help. Robert has already hung, drilled, cleaned, moved, repaired from a list longer than his tired arm. SO, that's why you see me power washing his golf clubs. His idea to bring the power washer was a brilliant act of spousal manipulation. He had to know I'd seize it like an addict and let loose my latent OCD tendencies toward grime. I love stripping dirt from my stuff. Water conservation be dammed--I will have the cleanest terrace in Loreto Bay.

I started at the top--the tower and worked down. Walls, furniture, and all. Really though, the power washer probably uses less water than a hose. It is certainly efficient on stucco and cement.

My other favorite tool is the vacuum. I brought a new one down here. Previously, I believed I didn't need one since all our floors are tile. But, I was wrong. It's the attachments--those things that hang on your vacuum that you may never use--that are a bonus here. With the vacuum hose I went over every plaster baseboard and window-sill, under every bed, over every window shade.

So if I would recommend any two tools that one might overlook in the necessities of Loreto Living the power-washer and the vacuum are definite contenders.

Getting our house in order

Our casa has been unoccupied (except for a couple of family/friends visits) for six months. So if it seems I'm overly focused on cleaning, well, I am.
In my estimate, all the bedding and towels needed laundering and every surface of the house wiped and sanitized, or vinegarized as it seems we had some moisture built up downstairs. An irrigation sprayer to the courtyard was broken and throwing water under the door to the bathroom closet inside. (We have a huge closet instead of a bathtub--an option I don't know exists anymore with the casa chicas.) Why property management overlooked this little dysfunction puzzled us greatly and increasingly infuriated me as I took to the task of emptying every item in the closet and either wiping, soaking or washing it with vinegar. Later, I realized that property management did not have a key to our closet, so how would they know the problem--UNLESS THEY SMELLED IT! The secret to being satisfied with property management is to actually live here! Now that we're here, any request we have is met with immediate response. Within one day we had our leaky kitchen faucet and downstairs toilet repaired. Road Nine showed up in minutes to repair the Internet wiring. It's hard to stay mad when they try so hard.

Well, now that that task is behind me I am over it. On to other stuff. Our larger bedding can't fit into our washing machine so we had to locate a laundromat in Loreto. We found one just by driving up and down streets till we came across this rather promising one on Calle Independencia. ( If traveling north on Jaurez take a left at the four way stop which is Independencia and go down a few blocks; it's on the right) We dropped off a king bedspread, blanket and dust ruffle. The manager charged us 360 pesos. No bargain, but we got clean bedding folded and wrapped.

Back to our Other Life

Okay, finally back on the road after all these months back home in the states. This is Robert's fourth time (my second) driving the long Transpeninsular Highway 600 miles to the sleepy Baja town of Loreto--more accurately, to Nopolo, home to the Loreto Bay development. This time we pulled a 12-foot long cargo trailer stuffed with supplies. We brought a new, more comfortable sofa and leather chair, another television, kitchen appliances, etc. etc. I even tossed in a frozen turkey. On our first haul back in 2005, I remember being terrified at crossing the border. I had all our paperwork in order and worried over getting busted for bringing over perishable foods. We breezed right through never having to stop for inspection only to learn later that we needed to check in with immigration in Loreto to get our tourist visas.

The essence of familiarity is ease, in so each consequent trip down we grow nonchalant, even cavalier, over the border crossing event. Once again, this episode was uneventful. We crossed the border at Tijuana at 7:30 am on Sunday morning without any wait whatsoever and incredibly, if not foolishly, drove the entire trip in one day arriving in Loreto Bay at 1:00 am. We would never recommend anyone to do that, but we, or Robert rather, felt up to the challenge. I think after the long preparations and delays we were very anxious to return to our other life--to Loreto.

We fell into our beds and slept till noon the following day.