Sights and signage in Deadwood

Kangaroos in Deadwood

We started out the day with lunch at Cheyenne Crossing, a terrific restaurant that used to be the stage coach stop outside of Lead, South Dakota. Next we looked for a print shop in Deadwood to have some business cards made. The shop is housed in an early 1900's building that sells grave markers. When I opened the door and got a look at all the gravestones I'd thought I'd entered the wrong building, but the print shop was further inside.

The owner, Bruce Oberlander, happened to be free to help me design business cards for my weblog. It happens that he was once the mayor of Deadwood so he shared some interesting insights. His wife is descended from early immigrants to Deadwood dating back to before 1900. They had operated the same granite and marble works that exists today. When I shared this all with Robert he slyly remarked that considering the lawless and violent past of Deadwood, a tombstone maker would be the smartest trade to be in.


Next we visited Roo Ranch, home to kangaroos and wallabies. It is a new business, one that will surely flourish with all the tourism. Kids need attractions that casinos can't offer. Allison was in kangaroo heaven. For Robert and me that was the first occasion of our ever petting and playing with a kangaroo. Allie and I went to work hugging and rubbing their ears; Robert tried to wrestle one. Thank goodness they are so tame and tolerant.




After our fill of marsupials we headed to Kevin Costner's Tatanka. It is an interpretative center focused on the buffalo's significance to the Plains Indians. I would recommend seeing it. The sculptures of Indians chasing buffalo over a cliff is very good.

Lastly, we walked historic main street and witnessed a mock shoot-out. Robert had a shot of whiskey in the bar where Wild Bill Hickok was killed. I sipped on a shot of his Southern Comfort which I liked more than I imagined I would. The bartender suggested I might really like what's called an "Old Fashioned." I told her I'd be back, but it didn't happen. We ate bad food at another casino restaurant and then went home to our RV park so I could do wash and let Allison watch Disney Channel on the tv in the laundry facility.

Custer-fluster

Another run through Custer Park today. We tried to find the walking trail to Prairie Dog Town, but missed it. Instead we settled on Lover's Leap, a three-mile loop across from the Norbeck Visitor's Center. It turned out to be a killer ascent up to the mountain cropping where legend says two Indian lovers jumped to their deaths.

Allison kept puzzling over why anybody would willingly jump off a cliff. Hard concept for a happy little girl to grasp. The ledge is barely marked and it's approach-at-your-own-risk, though there's no written warning to do so. In fact, I think overall, that Custer Park, is pretty lax in its safe-guarding. Surprising really, in this age of acute public caution. The Park rangers are extremely mellow. We saw one wearing flip flops. They do tell you to stay away from the buffalo, at least. The trail we hiked was hard to find. We had to ask for help at the visitor's center. It's like they don't care if you find it or not. Maybe they hope you don't because of the potential for harm. Our three-mile trek took us up steep inclines and through masses of poison ivy-lined trails. We had to cross the creek eight times over slimy stones. The trail end leaves you to trek through a little RV park before finding the main road back to your car. I'm not complaining, just saying, "HOW ABOUT A LITTLE MORE INFORMATION AT THE START-UP?"

After our excursion up the mountain we plopped back into the Tahoe to find Iron Mountain Road out of Custer Park. We were pulling the trailer (I forgot to mention) since we were heading straight for Deadwood after our park visit. Iron Mountain is a scenic drive that also takes a high ascent through narrow roads and three tiny tunnels. Somehow, Robert managed to get us through there safely, but not without wear and tear on his nerves. I hadn't realized it till we reached an RV park in Deadwood; he was tired and bugged by the troubles inherent in setting up camp. Missing items, leaky hose, parking difficulties.

He gouged his finger helping Allison unfold her scooter. I made matters worse by being too picky about where to eat. I didn't realize the whole town was casinos with their hospital-like food. We had the worst meal ever at Deadwood Gulch Casino. You enter through the slot-machine lobby, naturally. Allison whispered to me how sad it was to see all those old people gambling. She'd overheard us sometime discussing the dark side of gambling and had the notion that these old people were fallen souls. She said, "They should be home in rocking chairs, knitting like grandmas should." What grandma knits these days?, I ask.

Deadwood looks mysterious by night. The mountains are close-in, dark and cupping. It really is just a gulch cut through the mountains, so the town seems to fold in on itself. The lights twinkle in the hills above the low historic main street, giving a feeling of being watched from all angles. Knowing a little about the racy and lawless history of Deadwood (via the HBO series Deadwood,) probably influences my perceptions a bit. Let's see what the morning light does to wash away the naughty allure of a town built on greed.

Custer Park rocks!

Lunch at the Cattleman's Restaurant in Custer followed by a tour of the Custer County Museum at the old courthouse. Then on the Custer State Park, which is basically a huge hunk of land you can drive a loop through. Everywhere there is wildlife: antelope, deer, bison, turkeys. The upper region is rocky and thick with Ponderosa pines. Erosion has formed the rocks into strange designs. The most notable is Needle rock, which indeed looks like a giant sewing needle.

Here we are driving through a tunnel formed between rock spires. The passageway is just large enough for a single car to fit through, though from this shot it's difficult to imagine anything slipping through.



Along the way we encountered herds of buffalo, some crossing the road. Turkey families darted through the brush. Donkeys stopped traffic to beg for snacks. Park rules say don't feed them, but we weren't the first, obviously, since they seemed very comfortable with leaning into the car window sniffing for food.

At the Blue Bell Lodge we stopped for coffee and apple pie. Bad apple pie. Still searching...

Getting comfortable

Big Pine Campground in Custer, South Dakota marks our first camp experience in the Airstream. Good choice, I say. The place is practically empty and the few campers here are so friendly and helpful. Robert's been in counsel all morning with the fellow parked next to us. Our neighbor is all too happy to share his trailer knowledge with a willing listener.

We have yet to shower in in our Airstream; we use the camp shower house which is clean, roomy, and just steps away. We have used the oven to bake cinnamon rolls and the stove top for scrambled eggs. Robert hung a clothesline between two pines. With our bath towels drying in the breeze I feel closer to being trailer trash. I like it.

Mt. Rushmore, I presume?

Mount Rushmore--Still impressive after all these years. Our first and only visit was in August of 1992. Today, the grounds have been all updated. There are museums and gift shops and a restaurant not there before.

But the biggest difference to us is that this time we bring our little girl where before it was our little boys

She read to us little factoids from the park brochure. We count that towards her "schooling." And though the presidents in granite impressed, she was maybe more taken with the museum and its exhibit that simulates exploding the mountainside with dynamite. One presses the chosen target in the rock then pushes the plunger. Boom! Kids love that stuff--that and pressing pennies through a souvenir machine which would seem a no-no in a federal park. Maybe a penny isn't considered protected legal tender these days.

Deadwood on my mind

Tomorrow morning Airstream Abby gets a platform welded on her back-end so to tote the generator--Robert's department, so I don't know the exact details. We should be on the road to South Dakota by Friday morning. Hopefully, we'll make it to Custer in one day. We'll go north on 25 from Denver to Cheyenne then cross over to the Black Hills. I almost cut this trip out of our itinerary since it requires making a big loop eastward. Our general direction is straight north so to hit Calgary and Banff to visit friends there in early September. But it would be a shame to forsake the rich sights of South Dakota: the Badlands, Mt. Rushmore, Deadwood. Especially, Deadwood, since I now have an intense desire to check it out.

Actually the HBO series, Deadwood, is motivation enough to head to the Black Hills. Since I rented the first episode Robert and I have become hooked. In just three days we've watched the entire two seasons. We've become Deadwood heads! I'm embarrassed to admit to the hours we've wasted in front of the television. My back is stiff and Robert complains of a nagging headache, but God, I love that show.

The Airstream has become our movie theater since Deadwood is so vile and brimming with profanity that we have to hide it from Allison. We tried watching it in the condo but we were turning into rotten parents always saying, "Allie, get back to the basement!" What a joke that we haven't even camped yet. So far, our chic and shiny camper has served only as an expensive hideaway den.

That will all change soon enough.