Follow the Salmon River

We woke up still exuberant about our previously fabulous day in Blaine County. We love this little piece of Idaho. So naturally, we couldn't wait to see more. We left beautiful Ketchum to take the scenic rode to Salmon, Idaho. And it was picture-perfect scenic. Every mile following along the Salmon River was breathtaking. The river is shallow so it's always rippling over the round rocks that make up its bed. I hung my head out the window like a dog lapping up the fresh air, trying to snap photos. I wished Robert could hang his head out too, but somebody had to drive. We should have just stopped and camped for the night, but the drive was so exhilarating we just kept going and going. Hours and hours. Not knowing any better I kept urging us on to Salmon like it was the Emerald City at the end of a long winding road. Was I wrong. So today, I added another new nugget to our travel wisdom bag: Don't pass up a good thing believing a better thing awaits you just a tad further down the road.

When we finally got to the town of Salmon we were met with two disappointments: The beauty of the drive suddenly dissolved into an unattractive town, and, there was a heavy smoky haze in the air. We wondered if it was smoke from the central Idaho fires just blowing up the state, but it only got worse as we kept driving. We asked someone about it and she shrugged, unconcerned. "We have fires all the time. Sometimes it's smoky. If you'd been here this morning you'd seen clear skies." Well, then.

We passed up North Fork as too claustrophobic with the dense forest and heavy fire smoke. If there is a fire nearby, we'd like a good vantage point to see it from and a quick route to escape. Suddenly we were climbing over the Bitterroot Mountains. The smoke was so thick that the sun turned red. Next thing we know, we're in Montana, (probably the ugliest entrance, too with all the burnt trees) and wondering where to find a campsite. This corner of Montana seems to be a center for logging and businesses related to the building trades. Also we noticed quite a few chiropractic offices tucked between the casinos. Logging has to be hard on the back.

So here we are in a campground south of Missoula I don't even know the name of. We pulled in at dusk and didn't bother to unhitch. We'll sleep, get up early and head north to Glacier Park, hopefully to clear skies.

Fire and Ice

We lucked out. The Castle Rock fires near Ketchum are not much of a threat at the moment. Firefighters say they should be completely contained by Monday. As a precaution, the town cancelled most Labor Day weekend events and the crowds stayed away giving us a rare glimpse into a quiet Ketchum. We even have perfect weather, too. Today we rented bicycles and rode the Wood River bike trail that runs some 20 miles through the valley, mostly along the river. Beautiful.

We got a bit ambitious and rode all the way to Hailey from Ketchum. Once there, we were too tired to ride the 13 miles back. We browsed a few stores and ate lunch at Shorty's (owned by Bruce Willis.) All over town thank you signs to the firefighters are posted in store windows. The residents are very grateful to them for saving their towns. There are over 1500 firefighters in town. Most are camped in pup tents on an open field in Ketchum. You gotta love their heartiness. The billionaires who own homes in Ketchum, Sun Valley, and Hailey sure do. Not one home was lost to the fierce wildfires. Nor one piece of art. A brisk business was made of removing valuable art from homes in the wake of the fire threat.
So far, the towns are safe, though the scare will put a sore dent in the economy. The loss of revenue expected from Labor Day weekend will be hard on merchants. Still, storekeepers were offering big discounts and freebies to the firefighters in gratitude.

We ended up loading our bicycles into a taxi van back to Ketchum. We rested, cleaned up, and went to dinner at the Pioneer Saloon. I finally had that Old Fashioned cocktail that the bartender in Deadwood recommended to me. No, not my favorite. Allison was put off by all the animal trophies hung along the walls. I thought the place was terrific. Robert had an Idaho baked potato the size of Rhode Island. After dinner, we went to the Sun Valley Ice Rink to see a show that included Olympic medalist, Sasha Cohen. Why that event didn't get cancelled, I don't know, but we were glad to enjoy it.

Ketchum or bust

Craters of the Moon, big snore. Even Robert winced a little. I think he was expecting a meteor crater like the one in Arizona. This was more like acres of upturned asphalt. Weird, definitely. While I grilled the park ranger about fire conditions in Ketchum, Robert skimmed the visitors' center to learn the origin of the the "craters." Yawn. Lava field, essentially. Okay, can we go now? Allison was weary and wanted to stay at the tiny RV park at the site, but I fixed that by telling her there were "crater monsters" out there and we should leave right away. Yes, let's go to where there are forest fires instead.

Since we'd come all this way and we were so close to the turnoff to Blaine County, we decided to go for it. The fires were mostly contained we were told and a few phone calls to local RV parks told us that the area was back up and running. We set our sights on making it past Hailey to the Meadows RV park. If we felt uncomfortable with the situation--if the air was too hazy or the locals started looking anxious-we'd circumvent and keep moving. After leaving the lava fields the drive became pretty. The mountains on the approach to Sun Valley were an unusual olive green, or maybe sage green since it was only sage that dotted the hills, and even though the valley floor was green with crops, the soil was bumpy and rocky. The skies were bright blue with masses of puffy white clouds. The whole setting was so pastoral and calming that all my apprehension faded away. Once we hit Hailey the man-made charm began. The main thoroughfare through town was lined with attractive shops and restaurants. We passed under a marquee announcing Bruce Willis' band playing tomorrow night. Darn, we have a seven-year old with us. We'll be walking trails and visiting wagon museums and the Sun Valley Ice Rink. But, Hailey, Idaho is just so darned cute, just like it's name. Try repeating Hailey, Idaho three times in a row. You'll sound like a kindergartner chanting vowels.

There is a faint whiff of wildfire smoke in the air, but for the most part the skies are clear and it appears we have made a lucky move. Many events were canceled and the usual Labor Day weekend crowd is a no-show. All the better for us to discover Hemingway's last haunt.

All the news in Idaho that's unfit to print

Goodbye, Wyoming. What a beautiful state you are. Now, we give Idaho a look-see. Unfortunately, we won't see enough due to the wildfires that have ravaged the central region and taken Sun Valley and Mr. Hemingway off our agenda. None of us has ever visited Idaho before so this is a disappointment. We had planned to drive from Ketchum up towards Salmon along a scenic road that follows the Salmon River. As is stands, we are driving from Idaho Falls to the Craters of the Moon and from there heading north. If possible, we will swing by Salmon if it is safe.

For such a big fire event, we have heard little detailed information about it. Everyone I asked in Yellowstone 0r Jackson had sketchy information. I tried logging into to the U.S. Forestry something-or-other site and discovered little. Robert says, "Let's just go. If it's unsafe there will be signs." So we chugged out of Jackson Hole this morning up a surprising 10% grade to head to poor old Idaho.

What news I've read reports that residents in Ketchum were asked to evacuate earlier this week. A clerk at the convenience store in Swan Valley told me what she knew: that smoldering pine cones were rocketing out from the forest fires to land in people's yards two miles away in Ketchum. That's an image that piqued our interest. Fiery pine cone missiles. Hmmm. No, better not go. Hemingway will have to wait. If there are forest fires you wouldn't know it; all the news out of Idaho is about their fallen senator, Larry Craig, who's naughty transgression in a Salt Lake City restroom is sending the Republicans into panic mode.

We don't care about that. We're just bewildered little tourists looking for a little direction. Hello, Idaho. Got anything nice to show us?

Laundry/Online!

Here's a combo: Laundry with internet connection. Allison checks on her adopted Webkinz, I update my blog, read my mail, and research our next stop.

Afternoon in the park in Jackson

Greetings from Jackson Hole, Wyoming!

Robert and Allison built a campfire last night outside our trailer. Of course, we roasted marshmallows. We noticed that most other campers had turned in for the night. We really are night owls. But what fun to sit under a full moon and listen to the rushing river in the distance. Other than the river the campground was silent. No radios, no generators, no people talking, even. However, we were startled a bit when we heard a cracking noise in the woods. Something was out there. I ushered Allison to the trailer, Robert close behind. He got a flashlight out and discovered two deer grazing next to the trailer. The light didn't scare them off; they hung around till we went off to bed.

We are cautious because we are in the semi-wilderness. We know that here we are guests of the wildlife. Wildlife. On our walk yesterday, we saw so much animal poop, scat, I think it's called. Of all subjects it is now animal poop that interests us. We have to get a book so we can identify it all! This morning we cranked up the generator for our very first time. Without it, it's hard to make that morning java, and I'm not one for Folger's instant. Robert and I took the standard three-minute shower, which is not as difficult to do as you'd imagine. It's all about conservation. Conservation. We laugh because we know this is not really roughing, how could it be with this awesome Airstream. We are totally comfortable.

My hardest obstacle is internet connection. We drove into Jackson Hole thinking it would be easy to find an internet cafe. I guess I asked all the wrong people because it took forever to find one. Finally, here I am at the Pearl Street Bagel perched in the corner under a scratchy speaker blaring Hootie and the Blowfish. It's hard to concentrate.

Jackson Hole is a bit like Aspen, Colorado in it's upscale tone. Great fine art galleries and restaurants. Allison was able to locate a Webkinz pony so she is thrilled. Tomorrow we plan to visit the fish hatchery and an art museum on the hill outside of town. We'd like to ride horses somewhere, as well as do a little fishing--that is, if the moose doesn't mind.

Role Reversal

Besides being the designated driver, Robert likes to play in the kitchen, too. I say, "Go for it!" In our short time on the road we have already acquired roles: He does all the driving, parking, hooking up, and waste management. I navigate, (taking blame for wrong turns,) manage the trailer's interior, laundry, grocery shopping, and Allison's schoolwork. I decide the routes we'll take and where we'll stay which means I get to do all the research, usually on the fly. So far this has worked out quite well for us. I've steered us towards rv parks where I can get internet connections, though in Yellowstone this has been impossible. We left there this morning and landed near Jackson Hole where I am back in touch again, though barely.

We have only stayed thus far, in top-notch, full hook-up campsites. Until last night we never used our own shower. These nicer facilities have laundry rooms, shower houses, and general stores, and sometimes even cable hook-up. In Yellowstone we stayed at the only full hook-up campsite, Fishing Bridge. It was adequate, but cramped. We only stayed two nights. There is no cellular service or internet connection in all Yellowstone that we could find. I guess that's the point--to be out of touch with the rest of the world.

During the day we were all over Yellowstone seeing the usual sites--Old Faithful, the hot springs, the mud-pots. We attended a couple of Ranger lectures which were very worthwhile. We learned that ravens have large brains for their bodies and they mate for life (so how smart can they be, really?) One of the best features of the park is the employees. Most of them are retirees there for the summer season. They just seem to be so thrilled to be there. We met a foursome that were great friends that came together to work at the Hamilton store next to Old Faithful. When the summer is over they've head back to their homes in Arizona.

We left this morning to head south to the Grand Tetons. We found a campsite very close to Jackson Hole, our first with no hook-ups. We are dry camping for the very first time. The site is just yards from the Gros Ventre River in a grove of Cottonwoods. The campsites are rustic and spaced far apart which is so nice. We set up camp and then took a walk along the stream where we came across a huge moose taking a long drink. In the camp we see deer and a buffalo across the field. I think we are going to like this kind of camping the best.

Cody Nite Rodeo!

What a blast! Cody Nite Rodeo. I didn't capture everything on video, but did manage to get a few clips of bronco riding and calf chasing. At one point the rodeo clowns invited all children under 12 to compete to pull a ribbon off the tail of a calf. Allie tried her best, but her boots encumbered her. "These boots are for walking. These boots are for stomping--but these boots are not for running," she explained later. We may go again tonight and give her another shot at it.

We spent the entire day at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center. There are five museums within the center, all of them top-notch. The Plains Indians Museum had better artifacts and exhibits than I've seen anywhere else. In the Buffalo Bill Museum it was fun to see his personal items: gifts from foreign nobilities, guns, buckskin coats, letters.
In the Western Art museum I came across a favorite, an image I've used in my blog: the Madonna of the Prairie, by W.H.D. Koerner.

Cody, Wyoming has been a real treat. I would have missed it if we had not planned this Airstream adventure to Yellowstone. It is very small and friendly. I notice things like young people who say "excuse me" when they cross in front of you. At the rodeo, a little boy in cowboy garb ( including the hat and giant silver belt buckle) startled me when he blurted out, "Where you from?" His name was Tyler, or Tanner, or some cowboy name, and he told me his big brother was riding a bull tonight. And yes, he was! Skyler Erickson, not more than 10 years old was indeed on top of a small bull later that evening. He won. I love the names of rodeo kids. Catchy western-flavored names like Chaz and Cole, Chance, Cade, Shain, Logan, Trapper, and his sister, Feather. I want a cowboy name. Or an Indian name. Any ideas?

Greetings from Cody, Wyoming!

On our way out of Deadwood we drove through beautiful Spearfish Canyon. We didn't stop to walk to the waterfalls since we were tired of trekking. Instead we headed straight for Cody, Wyoming. It took a lot longer than I estimated mostly because we had to cross the Bighorn Mountains where the ascent was non-stop, relentless. The transmission began heating up as we chugged slowly up the grade. Then it began to rain so we had to be extra cautious. Plus, there were deer to watch for; they cross the highway often. After leaving the mountains we came into a long desert-like plateau that went on for miles until we got closer to Meeteese.A few miles more and we were finally in Cody. We found an RV park close to the Buffalo Bill Museum and pulled in right at dark.

Overall, the Airstream pulls nicely behind our Tahoe. Robert is very careful which means we go slow and let people pass us. We're in no hurry. We get such a kick out of pulling over for a break. We unlock the Airstream, make a sandwich, sit on the sofa for awhile. So far, we love pulling our house with us. It's so cool!

Ponderosa Campground is nice enough though the Internet connection is puny. I find myself parked outside the Beta Coffeehouse after hours so to get on their Wi-Fi. I'd gladly patronize the place if it had realistic hours, but everything in Cody seems to go to sleep after 7:00 p.m. Except, the Rodeo. Good thing we didn't choose tonight to go; it is raining. As much of the country is in a terrible heat wave, we seem to have escaped to perfect temperatures. Nights in South Dakota and Wyoming are cool; days are usually sunny and mild. We are seeing these regions at their best.

Today we rode the exceptional Cody Trolley Tour though town. Our guides were a cheerful married couple, locals, I think. Margie dresses like Annie Oakley. Their claim is this: "Give us an hour and we'll give you a hundred years." They did know their Buffalo Bill Cody history.

Tomorrow we plan to visit the Buffalo Bill Cody Museum then head to the rodeo in the evening.

Sights and signage in Deadwood

Kangaroos in Deadwood

We started out the day with lunch at Cheyenne Crossing, a terrific restaurant that used to be the stage coach stop outside of Lead, South Dakota. Next we looked for a print shop in Deadwood to have some business cards made. The shop is housed in an early 1900's building that sells grave markers. When I opened the door and got a look at all the gravestones I'd thought I'd entered the wrong building, but the print shop was further inside.

The owner, Bruce Oberlander, happened to be free to help me design business cards for my weblog. It happens that he was once the mayor of Deadwood so he shared some interesting insights. His wife is descended from early immigrants to Deadwood dating back to before 1900. They had operated the same granite and marble works that exists today. When I shared this all with Robert he slyly remarked that considering the lawless and violent past of Deadwood, a tombstone maker would be the smartest trade to be in.


Next we visited Roo Ranch, home to kangaroos and wallabies. It is a new business, one that will surely flourish with all the tourism. Kids need attractions that casinos can't offer. Allison was in kangaroo heaven. For Robert and me that was the first occasion of our ever petting and playing with a kangaroo. Allie and I went to work hugging and rubbing their ears; Robert tried to wrestle one. Thank goodness they are so tame and tolerant.




After our fill of marsupials we headed to Kevin Costner's Tatanka. It is an interpretative center focused on the buffalo's significance to the Plains Indians. I would recommend seeing it. The sculptures of Indians chasing buffalo over a cliff is very good.

Lastly, we walked historic main street and witnessed a mock shoot-out. Robert had a shot of whiskey in the bar where Wild Bill Hickok was killed. I sipped on a shot of his Southern Comfort which I liked more than I imagined I would. The bartender suggested I might really like what's called an "Old Fashioned." I told her I'd be back, but it didn't happen. We ate bad food at another casino restaurant and then went home to our RV park so I could do wash and let Allison watch Disney Channel on the tv in the laundry facility.

Custer-fluster

Another run through Custer Park today. We tried to find the walking trail to Prairie Dog Town, but missed it. Instead we settled on Lover's Leap, a three-mile loop across from the Norbeck Visitor's Center. It turned out to be a killer ascent up to the mountain cropping where legend says two Indian lovers jumped to their deaths.

Allison kept puzzling over why anybody would willingly jump off a cliff. Hard concept for a happy little girl to grasp. The ledge is barely marked and it's approach-at-your-own-risk, though there's no written warning to do so. In fact, I think overall, that Custer Park, is pretty lax in its safe-guarding. Surprising really, in this age of acute public caution. The Park rangers are extremely mellow. We saw one wearing flip flops. They do tell you to stay away from the buffalo, at least. The trail we hiked was hard to find. We had to ask for help at the visitor's center. It's like they don't care if you find it or not. Maybe they hope you don't because of the potential for harm. Our three-mile trek took us up steep inclines and through masses of poison ivy-lined trails. We had to cross the creek eight times over slimy stones. The trail end leaves you to trek through a little RV park before finding the main road back to your car. I'm not complaining, just saying, "HOW ABOUT A LITTLE MORE INFORMATION AT THE START-UP?"

After our excursion up the mountain we plopped back into the Tahoe to find Iron Mountain Road out of Custer Park. We were pulling the trailer (I forgot to mention) since we were heading straight for Deadwood after our park visit. Iron Mountain is a scenic drive that also takes a high ascent through narrow roads and three tiny tunnels. Somehow, Robert managed to get us through there safely, but not without wear and tear on his nerves. I hadn't realized it till we reached an RV park in Deadwood; he was tired and bugged by the troubles inherent in setting up camp. Missing items, leaky hose, parking difficulties.

He gouged his finger helping Allison unfold her scooter. I made matters worse by being too picky about where to eat. I didn't realize the whole town was casinos with their hospital-like food. We had the worst meal ever at Deadwood Gulch Casino. You enter through the slot-machine lobby, naturally. Allison whispered to me how sad it was to see all those old people gambling. She'd overheard us sometime discussing the dark side of gambling and had the notion that these old people were fallen souls. She said, "They should be home in rocking chairs, knitting like grandmas should." What grandma knits these days?, I ask.

Deadwood looks mysterious by night. The mountains are close-in, dark and cupping. It really is just a gulch cut through the mountains, so the town seems to fold in on itself. The lights twinkle in the hills above the low historic main street, giving a feeling of being watched from all angles. Knowing a little about the racy and lawless history of Deadwood (via the HBO series Deadwood,) probably influences my perceptions a bit. Let's see what the morning light does to wash away the naughty allure of a town built on greed.

Custer Park rocks!

Lunch at the Cattleman's Restaurant in Custer followed by a tour of the Custer County Museum at the old courthouse. Then on the Custer State Park, which is basically a huge hunk of land you can drive a loop through. Everywhere there is wildlife: antelope, deer, bison, turkeys. The upper region is rocky and thick with Ponderosa pines. Erosion has formed the rocks into strange designs. The most notable is Needle rock, which indeed looks like a giant sewing needle.

Here we are driving through a tunnel formed between rock spires. The passageway is just large enough for a single car to fit through, though from this shot it's difficult to imagine anything slipping through.



Along the way we encountered herds of buffalo, some crossing the road. Turkey families darted through the brush. Donkeys stopped traffic to beg for snacks. Park rules say don't feed them, but we weren't the first, obviously, since they seemed very comfortable with leaning into the car window sniffing for food.

At the Blue Bell Lodge we stopped for coffee and apple pie. Bad apple pie. Still searching...

Getting comfortable

Big Pine Campground in Custer, South Dakota marks our first camp experience in the Airstream. Good choice, I say. The place is practically empty and the few campers here are so friendly and helpful. Robert's been in counsel all morning with the fellow parked next to us. Our neighbor is all too happy to share his trailer knowledge with a willing listener.

We have yet to shower in in our Airstream; we use the camp shower house which is clean, roomy, and just steps away. We have used the oven to bake cinnamon rolls and the stove top for scrambled eggs. Robert hung a clothesline between two pines. With our bath towels drying in the breeze I feel closer to being trailer trash. I like it.